Sailing around the cliffs of Kleftiko on the island of Milos.
If you’ve ever heard of the famous Venus De Milo sculpture which resides in the Louvre in Paris then you probably know it’s home was originally the island of Milos, located in the south western corner of the Greek Cyclades. Our prior journeys to these spectacular islands had so far bypassed this exotic beauty but now was our chance to explore her shores in all their exquisite charm.
The capital of Milos is the ancient and historic town of Plaka, set high on the rim of the striking island paradise. Its crowning stateliness was our first view of our destination and a stark contrast to the crescent shaped haven of the restless port below.
From the moment we arrived in Adamas, the main harbour of the island, we were suitably impressed. The small, bustling marina filled with mega yachts, ferries and cruise boats was fringed with traditional Greek tavernas, sweet-scented bakeries, chatty cafes, souvenir sellers, car rentals and lively bars.
The buzzing centre was framed by a backdrop of shimmering, white-washed, village houses and customary hotels running down the hills, spilling into the sapphire blue of the Aegean.
Our accommodation (Kryni Deluxe Houses) was only 500 metres from Adamas Marina which meant car hire was not necessary as buses and taxis were readily available. We pre-arranged a hotel transfer, a lesson learnt from frequent trips to ‘idyllic’ Greek islands where overcrowded ferry ports can leave you stranded and frustrated.
Late September was a perfect time to visit Milos. It was hot but not oppressive, the place was calm and prices for accommodation, car hire and day cruises were beginning to ease with the waning of tourist numbers.
KLEFTIKO
Our full day sailing trip to Kleftiko aboard the Andromeda was sensational. There were only 18 people on board due to the end of season tourist lull and we secured a special price of 50€ per person, which included lunch.
Sailing around the coast of Milos, past colourful fishing villages, rocky outcrops and arriving at the caves of Kleftiko was fascinating and everything one could ever dream about experiencing in this part of Greece.
The imposing, white limestone cliffs of Kleftiko tower over a vast number of caves which we first explored in a small dingy, followed by a closer investigation with snorkel and flippers at various stopping points chosen by our knowledgeable local captain.
This delightful eight hour sailing odyssey was simply extraordinary and certainly something not to be missed when visiting Milos.
BEACHES
There are so many beautiful beaches on Milos we were spoilt for choice and, in late September, hardly anyone uses them, unlike the middle of summer when the beaches are reportedly overcrowded.
Our beach of choice was Achivadolimni, a fifteen minute bus ride out of town. At the drop off point there was a beach bar, sun lounges and umbrellas.
However, we walked about 300 metres to the right and found the nudist area where the water was crystal clear, shallow and calm, with welcome shade under the trees.
We passed a few perfect, late summer days here, enjoying the beach almost entirely to ourselves.
DINING
Some restaurants we enjoyed were Mikros Apoplous and Marianna Restaurant, both on the waterfront, and Oh Hamos, one of the best in town. After dinner we wandered around the marina in search of the most recent super cruisers to arrive, casting discerning eyes over how the rich and famous choose to island hop.
On our short walk back to the hotel we debated whether to visit one of the many gelato shops or settle for an after dinner pastry from the luscious local bakery opposite the bus station. Milos was a relaxing island, easy, affordable and, by the end of September, just quite perfect for a totally ‘chilled’ few days.
GAY SCENE
Milos has now become one of our favourite Greek islands but probably more suited for gay couples than singles as we only found one gay friendly bar (Akri) and no other gay nightlife.
However, if like us you enjoy dining out in seafood restaurants with the Aegean a few metres away, sailing along stunning coastlines, swimming at heavenly, secluded beaches and exploring Greek food and culture, then Milos will be quite a special island for you as well.
Where to stay in Milos: